by Jean Patton
The aim of any natural therapy is to restore balance to the body – the same is true in using essential oils for skin care. With natural aromatherapy oils and ‘base’ ingredients, you can support and nourish the skin in a way superior to any synthetic product. While dramatic results can sometimes be seen with skin care ingredients made in a laboratory, natural botanicals can, when properly blended and applied, support long-lasting change without harsh chemical side effects.
Basic (yet very effective) aromatherapy blends for your skin will use some formula of essential oils from plants and flowers, based in a nutritive carrier oil, usually a seed or nut oil. These types of blends provide the powerful therapeutic healing effects of essential oils with the nutritive essential fatty acids of the carriers. Making your own blends is a very simple process; simply measure the proper amounts of carrier oils into a one, two, or four ounce mixing bottle (one with an eye dropper top are best, providing an easy way to dispense the blend) and add the essential oils, mixing as you go.
There are a few essential oils most often used in skin care recipes – you can pick and choose from among these depending on your desired results. Other essential oils may be added to enhance the aroma of your blend; many oils used to do so are also are know to relieve tension or bring about a healthy state of mind – and most natural clinicians will tell you that beauty starts from the inside-out. So make something you love the smell of that also helps your skin glow!
These few primary skin care oils include the following: Helichrysum italicum – the oil of this flower is one of the most highly regarded in aromatherapy for it’s great versatility. It has a pleasant aroma, it contains rare ‘di-ketones’ which stimulate the skin’s natural metabolism, and is a powerful anti-inflammatory (all tissue damage and aging is associated with inflammation on a cellular level). Lavender oil – ‘true’ or ‘French’ Lavender is the most used oil in aromatherapy today because of it’s great multitude of effects. Like Helichrysum, it contains regenerative ketones; it reduces inflammation; it speeds wound healing; AND it has an aroma very well known for its relaxing effects – easing tension while healing your skin – could you ask for more? Next up is Rosemary of the ‘verbenone’ type. It also contains ketones (that the cineol type does not) and is known as a circulatory and metabolism stimulant, increasing the flow of nutrients in, and waste products out, of your skin cells. Palmarosa essential oil is included in many blends for it’s gentle cleansing and antiseptic properties. And last but not least, Carrot Seed oil is the premier oil for regenerating tired, lifeless skin – often a result from too much stress or high levels of pollutant exposure.
This is only a few of the many essential oils included in skin formulas, though these are considered among the most important for their broad range of effects. Almost any essential oil can be added to a blend in balanced quantities. In many cases, oils are added as much for their lovely aroma as their direct therapeutic benefits to skin tissue. Many aromatherapists, and natural health professionals for that matter, consider the overall mental and emotional condition to be of primary importance in creating an appearance of fitness and beauty. Many citrus and floral oils are used for this reason – Neroli, distilled from the flowers of the bitter orange tree, is an often used example. Others are Jasmine, Sandalwood (very popular in Men’s skin care), Geranium and Ylang Ylang.
The essential oils are almost never applied to the skin undiluted (Lavender is a rare exception). Instead, they are added to what are known as ‘carrier’ or ‘base’ oils. Diluting the essential oil in carrier not only stretches your dollar, but the oils actually are more effective this way! Research has shown that most essential oils have the most dramatic therapeutic effects at concentrations of less than 5% of the total blend. And the carriers have their own positive effects; besides helping your skin absorb the essential oils, they provide nutrients such as essential fatty acids, and vitamin compounds which enhance the skin’s health.
A few of the most important carrier oils include the following: Rosehip Seed Oil is highly regarded for it’s regenerating effects for skin which has been over-exposed to the sun or has other damage. It includes a variety of Vitamin A which acts to increase cellular turnover, similar to Retin-A without the over-drying side effects. Numerous scientific studies have validated this oil’s positive effects on damaged or prematurely aged skin. Next is Evening Primrose Oil, which has a significant quantities of gamma-linolenic acid, an important essential fatty acid. Evening Primrose oil has been used to support skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, and may help premature skin aging. Finally, Hazelnut oil is possibly the most commonly used base oil for skin care; it is gentle, has little aroma, and is suitable for all skin types. Often, small amounts of Rosehip seed and/or Evening Primrose oil will be included in a blend, with Hazelnut oil comprising the majority of the carrier mixture.
Here are several blends categorized by skin type to get you started. For normal skin, used at any time: In each ounce of Hazelnut Oil, add 15 drops Thyme Linalool, 15 drops Rosemary Verbenone, 15 drops Neroli, and 15 drops Spike Lavender; this blend can work well for acne with it’s antiseptic properties, but is an excellent tonic for all skin types.
If your skin has been chemically damaged, is overly-sensitive, or otherwise ‘weakened’ with broken capillaries, try this mixture, applying frequently: For each ounce of base oil, use three parts Hazelnut, one part Rosehip Seed, and one part Evening Primrose. Add the following essential oils: fifteen drops Moroccan Chamomile, fifteen drops Helichrysum, fifteen drops true Lavender, and fifteen drops Roman Chamomile. The Helichrysum, Lavender and Rosehip seed will enhance the skin’s own natural metabolism, and the addition of the Chamomiles will greatly reduce inflammation that is found with almost all damage and/or aging.
If your skin is prone to acne, or has over-active sebaceous glands, the following blend can be of great assistance. It contains regenerative, antiseptic, and cleansing oils. Simply use Hazelnut as the base, and to each ounce include fifteen drops of Green Myrtle or Inula graveolens, fifteen drops Eucalyptus dives (because of the ketones in this oil, it should not be used if pregnant – or under 10 years of age – but is otherwise considered safe), fifteen drops Spike Lavender, and fifteen drops Rosemary verbenone.
For skin appearing tired and lifeless, and a healthy glow with this blend: 1/5th ounce of Rosehip Seed and 4/5ths ounce Hazelnut oil. To this add 15 drops Carrot Seed essential oil, 15 drops Lemon verbena, 15 drops Niaouli, and 15 drops Rosemary Verbenone. The strong, revitalizing qualities of Carrot Seed and the firming effect of Niaouli combine with the natural detoxifying properties of the Rosemary and Lemon verbena to make an excellent restorative blend. For aging skin, for tightening and regeneration, blend in 5 ounces of Hazelnut oil and 1 ounce of Rosehip seed oil, 15 drops of Green Myrtle, 15 drops of Cistus or Rock Rose essential oil, and 15 drops of Rosemary Verbenone. The essential oil concentration is kept low here so the blend can be used near the eyes – if any irritation occurs, limit use near sensitive areas.
These blends are tried and true combinations of essential oils (see Kurt Schnaubelt’s “Advanced Aromatherapy – the Science of Essential Oil Therapy”). They will help get you started into the wonderful world of natural health and beauty. There is a blend here that can suit the needs of nearly every individual; yet there are no hard and fast rules. You can blend oils to your own tastes and needs, just keep in mind that more is not usually better in natural medicine and therapeutics – a balance is important. Most essential oils work best at concentrations below 5% of the total blend in a carrier. For best results, once you begin to experiment, allow your intuition to lead you to the oils and combinations that work best for you.